Growing Garlic at Home
Photo credit by London Permaculture
Like tulips, daffodils and other bulb plants, autumn is the
prime time to get your crop started. Despite its close association with
Mediterranean cuisine, garlic is reported to have originated in the colder
regions of Europe, parts of Russia and China.
Choosing Varieties
and Planting Stock
Soft necks are the type that is braided, hard neck are the
type one often finds in grocery stores and Elephant, as its name suggests, is
quite large. Like many vegetables, the larger the head, the milder the flavour,
so if you like a strong garlic flavour, Elephant may not be the one for you
It is my belief that good planting stock is essential. I
have heard of people having success growing garlic from heads they picked up in
the grocery store and that is certainly an option. However, you should know
that some of this garlic is treated with an anti-sprouting hormone. This is
fine for eating and storage, as you do not want garlic to sprout in storage.
However, you do NEED it to sprout if you intend to grow it. So, just be
prepared if you choose this as your growing stock.
Photo credit by Grant Bowles
Planting and Mulching
In the autumn, your primary goal is to get your garlic
settled and putting down roots to hold it through the winter. Just before
planting, gently break apart your bulbs (heads) peeling away the papery outer
skin and separate the cloves. If any are damaged, bruised or misshapen, keep
them for eating rather than planting. Generally speaking, the larger the clove,
the larger the bulb will be. However, we tend to plant both large and small
bulbs for bio-diversity.
Garlic does not like to have wet feet and so you will need
well-drained earth. We also amend our soil with compost and bone meal as it
helps with root development.
Plant each clove with the pointy end up to a depth about 2 ½
times its size. Space them about 15cm apart…they do not like competition and
you need to leave room for bulb growth.
After watering, mulch your beds, leaf and grass cuttings will do just fine.
Tending in spring
At this time you want to concentrate on leaf and stalk
production. At this point your plants will need a good amount of water, about 3
times a week. Keep watering at this rate during the bulbing stage. Stop water about
two weeks before harvest as this allows the wrappers to dry out a bit and stops
disease from setting in from mould.
If you grow hard neck varieties you will encounter garlic
scapes. These are tall, thin stalks that grow from the middle of your plant,
usually with a little bulb on the end. These bulbs are actually seeds that can
be cultivated over a few years. There are differences of opinion on cutting
these, some saying that keeping them on leads to better storage life while
others say that cutting them leads to larger bulb growth. These make good
eating in any way that you might use garlic.
Harvesting, Curing
and Storage
Photo credit Hafiz Issadeen
It is always a challenge to decide when to harvest a root
crop where you can’t actually see the end product. If you harvest to soon, your
crop is too small, if you harvest to late you risk rotting. We have found it
best to harvest when the outer two to three layers of leaves turn brown and die
back, but there are still some green leaves. You should dig rather than pull
garlic. Just dig in with a small spade, about 10cm from the centre and gently
lift it up.
At this point your garlic needs to be "cured" or
dried for a couple weeks. Keeping their stems on, you can hang your garlic in
any well-ventilated place, out of direct sunlight, as garlic can sunburn.
After they are cured, you can braid them if they are soft
neck varieties or for hard necks, cut off the stalks, dust off the dirt and
store them in a well-ventilated dark place. Light and moisture cause sprouting,
which you want to avoid as this makes the taste bitter. In this manner, your
garlic should keep well for about 10 months.
For more information I would recommend the following
website:
Good luck with your garlic growing!
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